Sunday December 23:

Supply convoy

Another early start to resupply a remote patrol base in Helmand’s Green Zone. I am crammed in the back of a Vector vehicle in the darkness with lots of Christmas parcels, equipment and food.

We stop in Gareshk to pick up members of the ANA. We follow Route 1 – which is also known as A1 – which rapidly turns into a dirt track.

I am informed there are a number of mine hotspots along our route not to mention the danger of suicide bombers and rocket attacks.

It is at this point I realise I am undertaking the most dangerous commute of my life – I refer you back to my initial thoughts as we were approaching Kandahar Airfield.

When I did eventually return to FOB Price I saw a map of the route with lots of red dots along it and I ask what they represented? I was told they were all incidents involving IEDs. So it was a good job I saw it after I returned.

Patrol Base Oscar 4-4

The British troops there have recently taken over what was a former Afghan compound which is now known as Patrol Base Oscar 4-4.

It resembles one of the forts in the films featuring the French Foreign Legion in North Africa and has regularly come under attack from the Taliban.

They are clearly making the best the harsh conditions. There are even a few Christmas decorations and a couple of puppies – Oscar and Zulu – running wild about the place.

I am invited to have a cup of ch’ai – tea – by members of the ANA. This turns into a small feast with naan bread, thick cream and chocolate laid out before me. The black tea is laced with sugar of which I can see about a centimetre of the sediment lying at the bottom of the glass cup.

During this time the Afghan soldiers raise various concerns with their commander.

After two cups I make my excuses and leave feeling I have actually met and connected with the locals. Again they were very friendly and everyone wanted to have their picture taken.

I also had my first experience of field rations which are reasonable, considering the conditions, but I suspect they might become boring after a few weeks.